ancora surf e scelte di vita

Chiacchiere, sfoghi, i grandi temi della vita (tipo: Surf, surf, e ancora surf...)

ancora surf e scelte di vita

Messaggioda lorcar » lun set 10, 2012 10:01 am

vi segnalo questo, che fa il paio col thread di qualche giorno fa

http://forum.surfermag.com/forum/showfl ... ost2381263

since I started surfing, or better, since I became addicted, I feel surfing reshuffled priorities in my life. That's not bad by itself, but from time to time I feel it's getting dangerous when interferes with all other aspects of my life.
I dont mean vacation time only: having only X days of vacation a year, my fiance feels like I am always trying to avoid certain greatest locations/countries simply because there is no surf over there. I saw some pics of gorgeous islands, those pics that make most people drool and dream, and I was thinking "that's flat, no waves there".
But in general everything requiring a bit of planning has been hijacked. "do we go there over the wknd?" she asks politely.
"Ok with me" I say "but in two days I'll check the forecast and if there is a swell coming I cant come, I am sorry for the dinner with your parents but I cant make it" is my standard reply (we live 2/3 hours from the ocean, and I can surf at weekend only).
Yesterday her brother had a baby, so it was big party and joy time. And that triggered this rant (or request for help?). I feel that because of surfing I am foregoing or negating everything else life is and gives. Like for example having a baby. I am sure it would be greatest and one of the pinnacles of a man's life, but at the moment I see it as a waste of time, as a further obstacle to my already reduced surfing chances. When I realized I was thinking like this I said "Houston you need help". Last night I spoke with a friend and he's spending the wknd driving his 4 yo daughter to a kid's bday party in a landlocked place, surrounded by other kids and parents he's never met. I cant help but thinking what a waste of time... (someone else also told me he's having fun time with all other moms, but this is a different tale)
I feel like surfing took me all the pleasure in everything else. She also said in a very touching way "I wish you had for me the same interest and passion you put in everything is surfing-related". Thus I feel like I became more stupid and wasting a lot of time and energy waiting to surf rather than surfing, foregoing the rest. Or simply I am unable to see through the true priorities anymore.
Dont even talk about all the time spent on the web checking out boards, forecast, message boards...
Then I think it might be simply because I dont have access to the ocean on a daily base and I shouldn't worry. Probably the solution is to be selfemployed, but every entrepreneur works more than any employee, especially during the startup phase.

has ever happened to you as well? how do you find balance? was reading these comments
http://stokereport.com/rant/how-be-marr ... f-everyday
in particulare "wave glider" 's comment
Someone else calls it "selfish disease"...
lorcar
 
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Re: ancora surf e scelte di vita

Messaggioda Gabro » lun set 10, 2012 4:02 pm

mi sento così...
e per questo sto direzionando tutta la mia vita in modo da trasferirmi vicino all'oceano, tra un annetto circa.

Ho iniziato, abbandonando Roma, dopo 31 anni, non pensavo l'avrei mai potuto fare, e invece...

Adesso sto in una tappa intermedia, Madrid, totalmente inutile, un anno di attese, con weekend Bilbaini appena è possibile, ma arriveranno i tempi migliori
Cazzo se arriveranno

Follow your wave
Dentro l'acqua seguo il flow
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Gabro
 
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Re: ancora surf e scelte di vita

Messaggioda lorcar » lun set 10, 2012 6:42 pm

"Surfers are selfish, selfish people. Both in the water and out."
lorcar
 
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Re: ancora surf e scelte di vita

Messaggioda mahalo » lun set 10, 2012 9:58 pm

lorcar ha scritto:"Surfers are selfish, selfish people. Both in the water and out."

Mica tutti pero eh...io in da uoter non so così selfish anzi...pero penso sempre al serf e al posto di waveglider avrei fatto lo stesso identico...fanculo...evidentemente no era la donna sua...capita...er cappio mai regaz..
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mahalo
 
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Re: ancora surf e scelte di vita

Messaggioda 312T4 » ven ott 15, 2021 3:52 am

Condivido.
A me il surf e' arrivato per caso e mi ha complicato le cose.
Penso il problema sia pero' per coloro che devono viaggiare -come me-, perche' vivere davanti ad uno spot decente e' tutta un'altra cosa.
Esserne lontano invece ti costringe a giocarti tutto nel weekend e non solo devi scegliere il dove ed il quando al meglio che puoi (e sempre col rischio di cannare) ma ci devi incastrare anche tutto il resto della vita sociale attorno.
Ed ovviamente nascono atriti sulle priorita'.
Logisticamente, mentalmente e umanamente difficile.
312T4
 
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